Intellectual chic meets coastal glamour - Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins Antibes
Dear readers, if you are into literature, the late American writer and novelist, Francis Scott Fitzgerald (a.k.a. F. Scott Fitzgerald), should not be a strange name to you, especially when one of his famous novel “The Great Gatsby” which published in 1925, that has been turned into movies for two times. Yes, we knew about the name of this writer, but how much do you know about him? In particular his life? When I asked myself this question, frankly I really didn’t know much about his life, except the attention that drew my attention about him is the movie “The Great Gatsby” directed by Australian film director and producer, Mr. Baz Luhrmann, and then it led me to dig up some of his novel which either mass-produced and stacked up high in a bookstore, or being marked in deep discount and buried in a tragic discount corner that no one cares. While he was famous for depicting the flamboyant and glamorous life during the jazz age, in reality, his life doesn’t seem that fortunate and smooth as what I thought of; throughout his life he had written only four notable novels, and co-wrote another famous novel “Lost Generation” with esteemed late American writer and novelist, Ernest Hemingway, and other writers; he didn’t exactly had that much success, in particular financially, from his famous novel “The Great Gatsby”, his literal work was facing a decline during the Great Depression, which he has to take on a job as a screenwriter in Hollywood to make a living, and cohabited with someone before his passing in 1940 from a heart attack, at the age of 44. Struggling with alcoholism towards the end of his life, Francis Scott’s work has not been highly regarded, nor bringing him a continuous financial prosperity and abundance even during his prime except during the 1920, his work only received critical acclaim after his death, and being recognized as one of the greatest American writers of the 20th century. I was really surprised and shocked about how unfortunate his life turned out, and how his work was being neglected until after his passing, the unfairness, ignorant and brutal reality added up that altered this great writer’s life, and it somehow made me developed a certain sentimental sensation within me, the poignant, poetic and bitter romance, with a bit of compassion I guess, that makes me started to interest to get in touch with his past, and his flamboyant lifestyle back in the heyday of the jazz age; given I had planned to go to the French Riviera this year, I decided to go to the place where I can trace back the history and the intellectual spirit of this famous writer, to recapture his tasteful and literature lifestyle during his vacation in the French Riviera, and that is Hôtel Belles Rives.
Located at the beautiful coast of Juan-les-Pins in Antibes, Hôtel Belles Rives is synonymous with understated luxury, literature elegance, nobility and secluded summer resort chic in the French Riviera; as one of the precious gem for summer vacation sought by affluent, elite and sophisticated high society circle, this luxury hotel has a deep history with F. Scott Fitzgerald as he and his then-wife, Zelda, who were the frequent guests whenever they were spending their summer vacation in Antibes. Formerly known as Villa Saint-Louis, a privately-owned hotel which was the only hotel situated on the water along Côte d’Azur back then, the Fitzgerald couple loved staying there, and enjoy partying with their literature and artist friends, among them included Ernest Hemingway (of course), Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Gertrude Stein etc., as well as some other elite and affluent Americans, and this is where Francis Scott completed his most famous novel, “The Great Gatsby”, while taking in the views of Cannes and Ilse de Saint Margureite, and, fuelled the writer’s inspiration for his other novel “Tender is the night” (1935), a semi-autobiographical novel that captured the summer beach atmosphere of Cap d’Antibes, as well as the chic and glamorous lifestyle of the Roaring Twenties.
The hotel was then rebuilt by hotelier, Boma Estène, and renamed as Hôtel Belles Rives since 1930, it has become one of the most popular summer resort destination for those who are craving for the glamour of French Riviera summer resort style, and a deep literature and artistic flair from the past at the same time. Currently managed by the grand daughter and great grandson of Boma, Madame Marianne Estène-Chauvin, and her son Antoine Estène-Chauvin, Hôtel Belles Rives is a luxurious 5-star boutique hotel with 43 rooms and suites inside, capturing the charm of the jazz age glamour and the elegance of Côte d’Azur high society scene, in particular the sublime Zelda suite, which furnished in luxurious details included those Art Deco inspired décor and interior, with the panoramic view of the Mediterranean sea.
In terms of fine dining, the sumptuous Michelin-starred dining room, La Passagère, which specialized in local seafood prepared in the finest French culinary manner, will certainly delight the taste bud of those who are into refined French and Riviera coastal style cuisine; the elegant Fitzgerald Bar, which paid homage to the famous late American writer himself, is the perfect spot to reminiscent the literature elegance and poetic beauty like hanging around with those great writers and artists back in the jazz age, with the luxurious Art Déco interior which echoes to the flamboyant lifestyle back in the writer’s time, it is an ideal place for a stylish indulgence over a glass of elegant cocktail.
If you prefer something outdoor and expose under the bright Riviera sunlight, the al fresco restaurant and bar, Restaurant La Plage, will possibly up to you alley, furnished in an open-air coastal style, this restaurant offers their unique summery cuisine in combination of Mediterranean and Provencal style, prepared by talented chefs Aurélien Véquaud and Steve Moracchini, together with the chic table setting in seaside chic theme, which enables one to experience the outdoor chic and French culinary indulgence with the breathtaking sea view of the Antibes coastline, along with the cool sea breeze and Riviera sunshine.
As I was sipping my cocktail at the outdoor bar, sat back and looking outward to the azure Antibes coastline and the iconic white ‘arch’ marked with the hotel name on it, I simply can’t believe that I was finally here! To trace back the Roaring Twenties chic and the sophisticated intellectual flair of the writer himself, and I keep visualising how happy Francis Scott was when he was enjoying his time here with Zelda and his writer and artist friends, how they celebrate life in the French Riviera in great style, gentlemen in their impeccably tailored refined menswear and shoes, sumptuous fragrance and crystal whisky glass at their hands, ladies in the drop-waisted flapper dress, chic headband and sparkling Art Deco style jewellery, throwing witty jokes or deep conversation about arts and literature, isn’t it the most beautiful scene in the French Riviera which how a stylish and elite summer resort soiree should look like?
I am not sure if Francis Scott did replay those memories in his mind while he was living in a less fortunate life back in the US toward the end of his life, using those memories as a sort of strength to fuel himself carrying on his life when the favour is not on his side, somehow that poignant has shook me, to remind me how we should cherish each moment that we create magic to ourselves in our lives, happiness fades and it’s always ups and downs ahead of us unknown, and how crucial it is to keep our feet grounded at all times while living in the present, making our best effort to make our fantasy or dream into reality.
If Francis Scott can read this, I truly hope to let him know how charismatic his work is to motivate someone crazy and dreamy enough like me, to travel all the way on the other side of the continent to Hôtel Belles Rives, to connect with him and showing my appreciation over his work despite it was almost a century too late, at the same time, thanking him for opening my eyes to get to know him a bit better, to experience his literature world and the glamorous jazz age lifestyle, in this tranquil and sumptuous hotel located at the coastline of Antibes.
Image courtesy of Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins Antibes.